Perhaps in response to our new restaurant critic Soleil Ho’s review of Chez Panisse, Tom Miller turned to Yelp to see what other people were thinking. Wherein he found the following, an excerpt from a lengthy essay: “Chez Panisse’s offerings are formidably sexual in nature. Every glance and then a recovery of what had been occurring prior of the tease, due to the presence of stoic timidness, what have you, is almost as if a fawning had been required to prepare for the fragile savagery of the act that will follow. Quickly, a utopian stare develops, a physical stunning of the heaving lips coupling with the moistness of an April dew, is a prelude to a smother of a passion that is building, as the initial course is being lustingly enveloped.” P.S.: Upon receipt of Miller’s note, I turned to Yelp, too, first to check out the veracity of what he’d sent and then to see what other people had said. And it was amazing to see the length and erudition — at … [Read more...] about At Chez Panisse, are the heaving lips fried or poached?
Maybe this is too on the nose, but it’s true: I first saw Alice Waters’ “The Art of Simple Food” on a bookshelf in the common room of an organic vegetable farm where I worked in 2009, stuffed in there between Frances Moore Lappe’s “Diet for a Small Planet” and Eliot Coleman’s “The New Organic Grower.” We, the farmhands, learned what it means to live according to Waters’ ideology, like Lappe’s and Coleman’s. Before we began our day’s work, I’d stumble out into the dark, misty field in my pajamas and harvest a cluster of greens to stir into scrambled eggs. We would nurture seedlings in the greenhouse, shaking their tops after watering as if petting a litter of kittens, and hand-squash the potato beetles lurking under thousands of tomato and pepper leaves, all for the sake of flavor. And in the evenings, we would read more about how we were supposed to live. So to finally go to Waters’ … [Read more...] about The fantasy — and reality — of dining at Chez Panisse
By Ali Bouzari Updated 10:25 am PST, Friday, December 21, 2018 At Chez Panisse, a perfect piece of fruit is at the center of the universe. At Chez Panisse, a perfect piece of fruit is at the center of the universe. Photo: Illustration By Christina Chung Photo: Illustration By Christina Chung Image 1 of / 1 Caption Close Image 1 of 1 At Chez Panisse, a perfect piece of fruit is at the center of the universe. At Chez Panisse, a perfect piece of fruit is at the center of the universe. Photo: Illustration By Christina Chung Housemade: Legend of the Chez Panisse fruit bowl explained 1 / 1 Back to Gallery Welcome to Housemade, a Chronicle column by culinary scientist Ali Bouzari. Here, … [Read more...] about Housemade: Legend of the Chez Panisse fruit bowl explained
In the third episode of Cooking By Ear, host Cal Peternell makes fattoush with filmmaker Mira Nair. Other guests on the podcast include Oscar winners Frances McDormand and Alexander Payne. (Photo courtesy of Cooking By Ear). After 20 years as the chef at Chez Panisse, Cal Peternell left the restaurant to focus on cookbook writing and develop his podcast, Cooking By Ear. (Photo: Courtesy of Cooking By Ear) Show Caption of Expand By Jessica Yadegaran | Bay Area News Group, Mercury News PUBLISHED: June 6, 2018 at 10:49 am | UPDATED: June 6, 2018 at 11:10 am How we cook has changed so much —not just in the quality and intelligence of our appliances, but in the mode we receive recipes. These days, you can use an app to customize a curry with the ingredients you have on hand, or even ask Alexa the best way to make a cauliflower pizza crust. But what if you could actually hear the onions sizzling, and be entertained while you chop and sauté? That’s the … [Read more...] about Food tech: Cooking tips and conversation on Chez Panisse alum’s new podcast
You might expect a former Chez Panisse chef to rocket on up to the head of his own restaurant. But Cal Peternell, who left the Berkeley restaurant in 2017 after 22 years of service, has gone in a very different direction. Several directions, really: This spring, he launched a new podcast, Cooking by Ear (available via iTunes and Stitcher), whose first five episodes have brought him into the kitchen with the likes of actor Frances McDormand and musician Big Freedia. William Morrow is publishing Peternell’s third cookbook — “Almonds, Anchovies and Pancetta” — in September. And he has joined StudioToBe, a co-working space and production facility for journalists, which recently moved into an airy, brick-walled space at 906 Washington St. in Old Oakland. There, he’ll be opening a casual restaurant. Where is Peternell’s trajectory headed? We chatted with the chef about his unique path and what he hopes to accomplish with it. (Interview edited for … [Read more...] about Chez Panisse vet Cal Peternell wants to save journalism with a podcast