Jonathan Gold’s hangover helper: 9 dishes to help your morning after

Why, I sometimes wonder, do hangovers wear themselves out when faced with the primal — not the flannel cakes at Musso & Frank Grill, which are served during the proper hours of 11:30 to 3, but the horrifying mass of a Lucky Boy breakfast burrito; not the dense cheese omelet at Petit Trois but the Expo ’73 at Uncle Bill’s in Manhattan Beach. Is it sugary pan dulce that sails out of kitchens on woozy mornings after, or bowls of murky, odoriferous menudo laced with boiled hominy and tripe? Lacy, lemony Dutch babies or Vegemite on toast? Flaky croissants or oozing piles of sausage? On New Year’s Day, we occasionally think about these things. And while not all of these restaurants will necessarily be open on New Year’s Day, you may as well keep them in mind for future occasions. Boat Noodles Sapp’s boat noodles are magnificent, drowned in a murky, beef broth lighted up like a pinball machine with shrieking chile heat, thickened with ground blood, the tartness of lime juice locked in muscular poise with the brawny muskiness of the broth. There are gooey chunks of tendon and ribbons of tripe that are more texture than flavor. The scraps of beef look exactly like the scraps of liver, and the difference between them in taste is sufficient to unlock entire neural networks incapacitated by drink. And if you ask for the noodles Bangkok-spicy (don’t), the endorphins will soon drown out the pain. For the meek, Sapp cheerfully serves… [Read full story]

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